Average Reviews:
(More customer reviews)Wow!!! That was literally the first word that popped into my head as I started reading this book. The number and quality of photos BLOWS away any other comparable book. It looks like there are about 3X as many photos as others on the market, making it THE BEST visual source of information on individual placements as well as overall anchor configurations. As we all know, "a picture is worth a thousand words." And, in this case, a picture could be worth your life as well. I could go on and on about how/why this book is so much stronger than others out there. Some highlights are below:
-Luebben's mechanical engineering background is very apparent when you read this book. Being an engineer myself, I really appreciate having a book written by someone who truly understands the mechanics involved with anchor rigging.
-He explains the v-angle and pulley effect (which others only elude to), and there is an appropriate distinction between body weight -- top roping, seconding, rappelling forces -- versus leader fall forces.
-There is a whole chapter explaining climbing physics, and there is a lot more information about cam and nut design and placement considerations.
-Many more anchor rigging options are discussed and pictured, including some minimalistic ones just using slings.
-Luebben does a much better job explaining how to make judgment-based decisions as opposed to following a standard set of rules for all situations.
-All of the above factors make Luebben's book a better source for more experienced climbers (in addition to beginners) than others on the market.
-According to the back cover, Lynn Hill has even recognized Luebben's experience and knowledge, as she selected Craig to be the main anchor and self rescue trainer for her climbing camps - that's pretty cool!
Bottom line...even if you have other books (new or old) it is well worth your money to invest in buying this book. So much has changed in anchor theory in recent years and this book brings together the latest and greatest options.
Click Here to see more reviews about: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (The Mountaineers Outdoor Experts Series)
This is a rock climbing instructional book. Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into "Rock Climbing Anchors". This 2007 entry in the "Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series", for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.
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